A pocket square might be the smallest thing in your closet, but it makes a huge difference in how you look. This accessory is simple and straightforward: Just fold and tuck it into your jacket pocket, and you’ll turn a plain look into a finished outfit. But there isn’t only one way to fold it, and each approach fits a different dressy occasion.
This guide covers three easy pocket square folds, including the classic presidential fold, the textured puff fold, and the sharp single peak fold. Read on to find out how to fold a pocket square and when to wear each one.
How To Choose the Right Pocket Square Fold
Two factors decide which pocket square fold to go with: How dressed up the event is, and what the square‘s made of.
Let’s start with a few common folds and occasions you might wear them:
- Presidential fold: The gentleman’s option — this fold’s versatile and formal. Wear it to a wedding or a job interview.
- Puff fold: This fold is more casual. It suits happy hour, parties with friends, or any night you’re leaning on the casual side of buttoned-up.
- Single peak fold: If you want an option that’s more relaxed than the presidential but dressier than the puff, try this. It’s a good middle ground and safe for most semi-formal events.
Now, you’ll need to choose the material. Fabric plays a big role in choosing a fold. If your pocket square’s cotton or linen, it will hold a sharp crease, ideal for structured folds like the presidential. A silk pocket square doesn’t hold creases the same way. Its softness is ideal for a puff fold.
The Presidential (Flat) Fold
The presidential fold (sometimes called the flat fold) is a classic approach to wearing a pocket square. This small bit of angular fabric just barely peeks over your pocket, adding a simple, sophisticated edge to your look. It’s definitely the right call for formal and black-tie events.
How To Fold It
It only takes a minute once you know the right moves. Here’s how to do it:
- Fold it in half: Lay your pocket square on a flat surface and fold it in half. Make sure to straighten the edges for a clean look.
- Make another square: Fold it in half again.
- Form a rectangle: Fold the pocket square in half once more to make a rectangle.
- Make your last fold: Fold a small strip at the bottom up.
- Tuck it in: Slide the folded pocket square into your breast pocket so a small strip peeks out.
The Puff Fold
This soft, casual fold doesn’t have any sharp lines or precise corners. Its loose, fluffy texture is great for a laid-back day at the office or a low-key night out.
How To Fold It
Create this simple pocket square fold in just a few steps:
- Start flat: Lay your pocket square on a flat surface.
- Pinch the center: Grab the middle of the fabric with your thumb and forefinger, then lift the square straight up.
- Let it drape: Allow the fabric to hang down below your hand.
- Shape the puff: Use your free hand to gather the fabric just below your fingers and create a soft, rounded puff at the top.
- Fold the bottom: Fold the hanging ends up behind the puff. This makes the square short enough to fit in your pocket.
- Tuck it in: Slide the pocket square into your breast pocket, leaving just the puff visible above the pocket line.
The Single Peak Fold
This fold’s semi-formal, structured look sits right between the presidential and the puff. Its single triangular point grabs a little attention without looking flashy.
How To Fold It
Achieve this polished fold with these simple steps:
- Start flat: Lay your pocket square face down on a flat surface with one of the corners pointing toward you, forming a diamond.
- Fold to a triangle: Bring the bottom corner up to meet the top corner to make a triangle.
- Fold the left side: Fold the left corner in toward the center.
- Fold the right side: For the right corner in toward the center. Match the width to the size of your jacket pocket.
- Fold the bottom up: Fold the bottom of the pocket square up behind to create a solid base.
- Tuck it in: Slide the folded pocket square into your breast pocket so the top point is visible.
Which Fold To Wear for Every Occasion
You don’t need a different fold for every dress code and event. The same three cover almost every occasion, so once you know how to fold the flat, puff, and single peak, you’re set.
Here are a few special events and the pocket square fold to use for each.
Weddings and Dressy Events
Single peak and presidential folds look tidy and crisp, making either one a good choice for formal situations like weddings and galas. Both will hold their shape through photos and a full day of standing and walking, so you won’t have to fuss with them between the ceremony and the reception. If the event’s outdoors, though, a soft puff may be a better option. It’s less stiff and brings a bit of warmth to the look, which fits a bright, relaxed get-together.
Business and Work Settings
Unless it’s a Friday or a casual networking event, stick with the presidential fold for the office. A pocket square with a solid color or a subtle pattern looks professional without drawing too much attention.
You can wear this fold to a client meeting on a Tuesday or for a day of deep work at your desk without looking out of place. And because it’s so simple to put together, wearing it is an easy habit to build into your morning routine.
Holiday Parties and Cocktail Events
This is where you get to have some fun. Reach for the puff fold in a bold color or pattern, since a holiday or cocktail party is exactly the setting where you can show some personality. A paisley print or a rich jewel tone turns a plain sport coat or velvet blazer into an eye-catching statement.
Pro tip: Keep the rest of your outfit simple so the pocket square’s the star.
Pro Tips To Nail the Look
A few small habits separate an effortless look from one that’s trying too hard. Here’s how to land on the right side of the line.
Complement, Don’t Match
Don’t match your pocket square exactly to your tie. When the color and pattern line up too perfectly, the outfit looks a bit too much like a prepackaged gift set instead of something you put together yourself.
Match your pocket square to one of the secondary colors in your tie instead, or go with a shade that’s a little lighter or darker than your suit.
Keep the Fold Simple
A clean, simple fold always beats a messy one. Instead of trying to nail an elaborate, multi-pinch setup, stick with a fold you can execute cleanly. Save the fancier styles for after you’ve got some practice in.
Get the Size Right
Pay attention to the measurements when you’re shopping — the pocket square’s size affects how well it holds a fold. A silk square that’s smaller than about 16 inches tends to slip and sag throughout the day, so choose that size or larger. Linen and cotton squares run a little smaller. Reach for ones that are 13 to 15 inches, as these fabrics hold their shape better.
Find Your Pocket Square at Men’s Wearhouse
You don’t need a huge collection of pocket squares to get started. Pick a few essentials for your capsule wardrobe: A white linen option, a solid color, and a patterned silk pocket square cover almost every occasion on your calendar.
Men’s Wearhouse carries a range of pocket squares, with plenty of suit and sport coat options to build the rest of your look. If you’re not sure where to start, ask our in-store teams. They know fabrics, folds, and fits, and they’re happy to help.
FAQ
Can You Wear a Pocket Square Without a Tie?
Yes, you can wear a pocket square with just a jacket or a sport coat, no tie required. It’s one of the easiest ways to dress up a casual outfit.
What’s the Difference Between a Pocket Square and a Handkerchief?
A handkerchief is typically kept in your pants’ pocket and meant to be used for things like spills and wiping your nose. A pocket square stays visible in the breast pocket of your suit jacket and is only decorative.
How Many Pocket Squares Should You Own?
In most cases, three pocket squares is enough. This typically includes a solid neutral for everyday use, a white cotton or linen option for formal occasions, and a silk or patterned pocket square to show some unique style. This trio handles nearly every situation without taking up too much space in your drawer.
How Do You Clean a Pocket Square?
Cleaning a pocket square without damaging it depends on what it’s made of. Most cotton and linen squares can go right in the washing machine. Silk is trickier. Take it to the dry cleaner. Or wash it by hand in cold water and lay flat to dry.
Shop Related Products
