How to Determine the Proper Coat Length?

Even the nicest jacket or suit won't look good if it doesn't fit. The absolute best way to determine the proper length of a jacket is a three-fold process. It involves:

  1. How the jacket breaks on the frame.
  2. Measurement of coat length relative to individual dimensions.
  3. The wearers overall "feel"of the garment.

Button point as guide
First, look at yourself in the jacket. Ideally, the point where the coat is buttoned (meaning the middle button on a three-button or the top button on a two-button single-breasted coat) should hit right around your waist. This will create the most flattering lines.

Measurement of coat length as guide
Second, while wearing the coat, have a tailor (or anyone else who's handy with a tape measure) measure the length of the coat from the top of the neck to the bottom of the rear center panel, and compare this distance to the measurement from the bottom of the coat to the floor. In a properly proportioned coat fit, these measurements will fall within a reasonable difference in size. If the discrepancy between the two is much greater than two inches, then the jacket is likely either too long or too short.

Proper size by "feel"
Finally, do not discount the simple act of observing oneself in the jacket in a fitting mirror. If the jacket looks out of proportion, then it's probably not the right size or style for you.

A note on proper sleeve length
As far as the correct sleeve length for a suit or sport coat, the best advice is to have the suit or sport coat sleeves tailored so that a small amount of cuff (no more than a half an inch) is displayed. For a professional look, it's not a good idea to wear a coat that hits past the break of the wrist.

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