You may have heard the terms “English cut” or “Italian cut” used with men's suits and wondered what they meant. As leaders in the men’s clothing industry with long-standing traditions of handmade or bespoke tailoring, both England and Italy have developed a distinctive look and feel to their garments, and this difference leads to what’s referred to as the “English cut” and the “Italian cut.”

The English cut
Generally speaking, the English-cut suit is characterized by higher-cut armholes, a softer shoulder, and somewhat narrower pant legs than its Italian counterpart. English-cut garments also tend to favor heavier, more substantial wools in the making of the suits, and tend to employ heavier fabric on the interior chest piece of the coat. These suits are most often produced in more subdued, traditional swatches in the more traditional colors associated with suiting. The end result tends to be an impeccable, conservative-looking suit.

The Italian cut
The Italian counterparts to these suits most often feature a wider, more engineered shoulder, coupled with a deeper armhole, and often wider-leg slacks. These suits, which most often make use of the finest, lightest wools, are also by design light, where their English equivalents are a bit more weighty. 

The Italian designers are much more comfortable making use of bold dyes and bright and bold patterns in the suit designs. This isn't to say that the Italian suits are “out there,” or any less suitable for business. While the Italian makers are indeed quite comfortable with bolder swatches, they are also quite adept at producing subdued, conservative business attire. It is more the case that these Italian conservative suits still feature a somewhat looser designer quality (with wider shoulders and the like). Italian goods are much less likely to be soft shouldered than are their English counterparts.

Vive la différence!
The differences between Italian-cut and English-cut tailoring are subtle, but can make a big difference to the wearer. Both have descended from a long tradition of tailoring and have their individual fans, but it's all about trying on different suits and finding out what's right for you.